In my orignal posting, I've tried everything including swapping the distributor assembly but it didn't help at all so I kept my orginal distributor assembly. I just know some basic stuff but it took me many almost a year to figure it out. Just to let you know, I'm not a mechanic and not formal experience on cars. Check my first posting about this problem, I've been working on it months and I finally got it started yesterday. I decided to buy this used one because my car has been sitting for almost a year next month. I checked the delear and I was told that it's $650 plus taxes which was way too much on my budget. I hope you can noodle something out from this.Well! I got mine from one of the guys in the ZCLUB 6months ago and paid $250 CAD. I have a second one in the car now and, as best I recall, I was getting similar numbers from it. The distributor I used was the original from the car. I know this is a lot of numbers, but it might give you an indication of where I'm at. The self diagnostic is still indicating code 21 and now 13 (chts). Also, as I was spinning the distributor the fuel pump was cycling on and off which also drew down the battery. The testing was done after the battery had been used for a while (might be why I'm getting under 12 volts in part of test). When I checked the distibutor by hand spinning (by the Haynes and the link previously provided) I got: 08 voltsĪt the harness entering coil black and white wire 11.81 Harness entering the power transistor small blue wire. Here are the voltage numbers I got after testing:Īt the harness entering the distributor black and white wire 11 volts Check/clean the ground points on the wiring harness around the front cylinder bank and also near the coil and power transistor. You might also check the power transistor. Look closely at the coil wire, that has a cover over it and may not look like it is disconnect. The voltages don't match the manual (never drops totally to zero) It's got about 180K on it and I want it to live! Any help would be seriously appreciated!It sounds like something happened with the connections after the timing belt as stated in the above post, so it's good advice to check all the connectors. Can you mess up the ignition timing by mistiming the front cam? I can turn the distributor by hand (as per the Haynes) and it sounds like the injectors are firing (?). It sounds like it is spinning over a little bit faster, but when I pulled it through by hand it felt like it had great compression. It all happened after I (on the advice of others!) changed the timing belt. I changed distributors, coil and the plugs and wires were fine. If yours is still running be glad! My '85 is giving me the same code but it won't start (no spark at all). I don't have my FSM on me right now but if you need me to look though it let me know. check and see if the coil is firing (pull the coil wire going to the cap) and see if that is firing if that is make sure all plug wires are on tight, and in the right order, if there is a chance your cam timing is off fix that first. The voltages don't match the manual (never drops totally to zero) It's got about 180K on it and I want it to live! Any help would be seriously appreciated!yes the distributor runs off the front cam, if you have no spark at all double check your wiring make sure connections are made and are clean.
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